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Paris · Maison d'Archives Olfactives

Midnight Scent Salon & Parisian Olfactory Archive

Compare classical chypre, iris, and incense architectures side by side, model IFRA 51st allergen thresholds, and build custom mouillette tasting notes from 2006-2011 Parisian dossiers.

Quick Scent Finder · Preview Pyramid
Compare Two Scents Touché à Sentir & IFRA 2006-2011 Critiques
Candlelit Parisian apothecary trial flacons, cellulose mouillette blotter strips, and Madagascar blue-black peppercorns
L'Artisan Dzongkha (2006) · 18% EdP
15 C RAINY EVENING · 8.5 - 10.2 HRS
Top · 0-45 min
Cardamom, Madagascan Pepper, Peony
Heart · 1-5 hrs
Florentine Iris, Olibanum Incense, Chai Tea
Base · 5-12 hrs
Papyrus, Smoky Vetiver, Leather, Atlas Cedar

Interactive Salon Workbench · Zero Telemetry

Side-by-Side Perfume Comparator & Touché à Sentir Planner

Place two archival references side by side to contrast top-to-base volatility, EU 2023/1545 allergen disclosures, and IFRA 51st Category 4 headroom, then generate your personalized mouillette tasting card.

Flacon A · Gold Curve

L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha (2006)

Bertrand Duchaufour · Woody Spicy Leather (18%)

Linalool / Lim.
0.198% / 0.288%
Eugenol Cat. 4
0.108% / 0.500%
Tenacity
7.9-9.5 hrs
TopCardamom, Madagascan Pepper, Peony
HeartFlorentine Iris, Olibanum Incense, Chai Tea
BasePapyrus, Smoky Vetiver, Leather, Atlas Cedar
Full Dossier
Flacon B · Moon Curve

Guerlain L'Heure Bleue (1912)

Jacques Guerlain · Amber Floral Powdery (18%)

Linalool / Lim.
0.342% / 0.216%
Eugenol Cat. 4
0.396% / 0.500%
Tenacity
8.5-10.1 hrs
TopStar Anise, Calabrian Bergamot, Neroli
HeartHeliotropin, Violet Methyl-Ionone, Clove Carnation
BaseFlorentine Iris, Siam Benzoin, Vanilla, Tonka
Full Dossier
A: Dzongkha (18%) B: L'Heure Bleue (18%) 0h 4h 8h 12h
1. Occasion & Ambient Climate
2. Preferred Botanical Notes (Select 1 to 3)
3. Concentration Tier & Botanical Formulation Matrix
4. Cold Maceration Duration (12 C Dark Vat)
45 d
IFRA 51ST COMPLIANT · EU 2023/1545 DISCLOSURE REQUIRED
Mandatory INCI label disclosure triggered (>=0.001% leave-on) for linalool, limonene, and eugenol.
Allergen Load
0.810%
Eugenol Cat. 4
0.144% / 0.500%
Skin Tenacity
5.0 - 6.1 hrs
TOP NOTES
36%
HEART
40%
BASE FIX
24%
Matched Archival Recommendation
L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha (2006) · 99%

Composed around dry papyrus, cool Florentine iris, and mineral olibanum incense.

Read Critique Dossier

Atelier Formulation Brief & Maceration Ledger

Atelier Formulation Brief
Fine fragrances formulated at 15% to 30% aromatic concentrate must declare linalool, limonene, and eugenol above 0.001% under EU Regulation 2023/1545 while keeping Category 4 eugenol at or below 0.50% per the IFRA 51st Amendment. Cold vat maceration at 12 C balances top-note vapor pressure against long-chain base fixation.

Heritage & regulatory anchors: Fragrantica Paris Grès Couture citation · PerfumerSearch Reference Directory · IFRA Standards

Formulation Parameter Eau de Toilette (EdT) Eau de Parfum (EdP) Extrait de Parfum
Aromatic Concentrate (% w/w) 8% to 14% 15% to 20% 22% to 32%
96% Beet Ethanol Carrier 80% to 88% 76% to 82% 66% to 75%
Cold Vat Maceration (12 C) 14 to 21 days 30 to 45 days 60 to 90 days
Evaporation Half-Life (Skin) 3.0 to 4.5 hours 6.0 to 9.0 hours 10.0 to 14.0 hours
EU 2023/1545 Leave-On Floor 0.001% (10 ppm) 0.001% (10 ppm) 0.001% (10 ppm)

Vapor-Pressure Evaporation Kinetics (0 to 12 Hours)

Top Volatility (Limonene / Pinene: 0.1 to 1.5 mmHg, 0-45 min) Heart Persistence (Linalool / Irones: 0.01 to 0.16 mmHg, 1-5 h) Base Fixation (Cedrol / Ambroxide: <0.005 mmHg, 5-12+ h) 0h 4h 8h 12h

Editorial Pillars & Heritage Continuity

Botanical Extraction & Raw Materials

Steam hydrodistillation, supercritical CO2, and concrete-to-absolute fractionation studies covering Madagascar wild Piper borbonense, aged Florentine Iris pallida rhizomes, and Atlas Cedrus atlantica. Explore the Botanical Distillation Monograph and the Perfumery Lexicon.

2006-2011 Critique Archives & Colophon

Preservation of classical fragrance analyses (L'Heure Bleue, Chanel Cristalle, Passage d'Enfer, Dzongkha) and francophone olfactory terminology cited across perfumery literature. Browse Critique Archives, French Heritage Index, or Editorial Colophon.

Formulation & Compliance Questions

How long does Extrait de Parfum last compared to Eau de Parfum?

Extrait de Parfum at 22% to 32% concentrate typically lasts 10 to 14 hours on hydrated skin, versus 6 to 9 hours for Eau de Parfum at 15% to 20%.

What is the EU 2023/1545 threshold for fragrance allergens like linalool?

EU Regulation 2023/1545 mandates INCI disclosure on leave-on fine fragrances whenever linalool, limonene, or eugenol reaches 0.001% (10 ppm) or higher in the finished product.