Paris Olfactory Archive · Formulation & Botanical Dossiers
LE JOURNAL OLFACTIF · POIVRE BLEU

Olfactory Families, Supply Chain & Perfumery Lexicon

A filterable taxonomic directory of the seven classical French olfactory families, core formulation vocabulary, and the four-tier fragrance industry ecosystem from Madagascar growers to IFRA safety evaluation.

Interactive Olfactory Family Taxonomy

Term / Family Category Defining Structural Skeleton Benchmark Examples
Chypre Family Bergamot top + Rose/Jasmine heart + Labdanum, Patchouli & Oakmoss base Coty Chypre (1917), Chanel Cristalle (1974)
Fougère Family Lavender + Geranium + Coumarin (Tonka Bean) + Oakmoss drydown Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882), Pour Un Homme
Boisé Épicé (Woody Spicy) Family Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vetiver anchored by Piper borbonense or Cardamom L'Artisan Dzongkha (2006), Dior Bois d'Argent
Ambré / Oriental Family Vanillin, Benzoin, Labdanum resin, Heliotropin, and warm spice facets Guerlain Shalimar (1925), L'Heure Bleue (1912)
Hespéridé (Citrus) Family Cold-pressed Bergamot FCF, Bitter Orange, Petitgrain, Lemon peel oils Eau de Cologne Impériale, Eau Sauvage
Mouillette (Blotter Strip) Atelier Tool Uncoated absorbent cellulose paper strip used to evaluate evaporation stages Standard 15 cm Atelier Evaluation Strip
Maceration & Glaçage Process 12 C dark resting in ethanol followed by -4 C chilling to precipitate waxes 21 to 90 day Fine Fragrance Maturation
Headspace & GC-MS Analytics Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry verifying IFRA allergen % w/w EU 2023/1545 Compliance Certificate

Fragrance Industry Actors & Value-Chain Architecture

Fine fragrances travel through four specialized tiers: agricultural botanical cooperatives (Grasse, Tuscany, Madagascar), extraction houses producing oils and concretes, international composition laboratories housing perfumers and regulatory toxicologists, and brand houses overseeing maceration, flacon filling, and IFRA compliance.

Botanical Harvest Madagascar / Florence Extraction Houses Steam / CO2 / Concrete Composition Labs Perfumer + GC-MS IFRA & Fine Brands 51st Amend. / EU INCI

Academic linguistics reference: UNY French Perfumery Register Thesis (citing poivrebleu.com) · Version Française (/fr/lexique-olfactif)